Mt. Baker North Ridge

My partner Alex had July 10th and 11th off, so we had been planning on climbing something during those two days.  We spent Saturday texting back and forth trying to figure out what our objective should be.  It was between the North Ridge of Baker and Liberty Ridge on Rainier.  We decided that since we knew the North Ridge was in good shape and we only had two days, we decided on the North Ridge of Mt. Baker. Sunday night we drove to and camped in the Heliotrope Ridge parking lot. On Monday morning we slowly woke up and packed our bags.  I had a new Arcteryx Bora 63 that I hadn’t used and never done the big backpack thing for mountaineering, so we loaded up extra stuff we didn’t really need including a books, a shovel, lots of yogurt and blueberries. About 2.5 miles of beautiful forests and streams took us to the Hogsback camp where there were lots of tents and people packing up after a successful day.  We decided to rope up and continue up the snow to a campsite on rocks at about 2100m.  It took us 3 hours with heavy packs to get to our camp.

On the way to our camp we were looking at potential routes for crossing the Coleman Glacier towards the North Ridge.  Being new to glacier travel, I thought all the routes looked challenging and did not see where the route went that was labeled on our Green map.

In the morning we woke up and saw a party of two crossing the Coleman glacier towards the North Ridge much lower than the listed route on our map.  This party had been camping a couple hundred feet from us, so we decided to give that lower route a go.  After a  while we started to notice the occasional old footprint which reassured us that this was the way.  The route finding was much less complex than we thought based on the views from our camp.  Fortunately there was no obvious footpath and I had to choose my own way around the crevasses with the occasional confirming crampon print from the party above us. A little before we arrived at the base of the North Ridge, a party of 4 AAI employees arrived below us.  It looked like they had camped lower down near the 6,500 foot level and took a more direct bath than us towards the North Ridge.  We opted for the Hour Glass start on the west side of the ridge as it was in the shade.  It was quite easy snow at a reasonable angle.  There was a bergscrund at the base which required a little bit of thought and care.  Once on the ridge it was just a typical slog to the base of the ice cliff.  To me there were three obvious routes up the ice cliff.  One to the right which went up a scrambly rock section and then a very short and low angle section of ice, one of various steep lines up the center, or a low angle 30m looking section to the left where I believe most parties go.  Being an ice climbing and not a mountaineer I decided to try for one of the steeper WI4 lines.  In many sections the ice looked sun affected, but I thought Id be able to scrape off the top layer and find quality ice underneath.  I got two good screws in and then about 50-60 feet up I tried to put in a screw and had to dig about 6 inches before I found some not good ice.  I did not trust the screw at all.  I moved over to the left and tried to get in another screw at a slightly different level, but I experienced the same thing.  Above me the ice looked the same.  Slightly over hanging and hard to protect.  I decided that given our remote alpine environment backing off would be the best idea.  There was no way I could get a quality V thread in the ice, and it was still too hard for a picket, so I left three screws with the hope that Id be able to lower in from the top and retrieved them.  We started with 7 screws and I left behind three, so we had a total of 4 screws to use for the ice pitch.  No problem.  We headed over to the easier section of ice on the left hand side where it looks like most parties climb up.  We started exchanging gear and Alex dropped a screw.  We watched it tumble down the snow slope towards a large crevasse 90m below us.  The whole time I was just hoping it would catch on a snow divet.  Finally it caught and Alex quickly down climbed the 55m to the screw and back up.  The ice section when quick and easy.  The nice flat ledge I was hoping for on top of the ice cliff was a steep and doming snow slope spattered with baby crevasses near the cliff edge.  I guessed on a location of my ice screws, made an anchor and had Alex lower me down to the cliff edge.  I peered over the edge and to my surprise I saw the ice screws 10 feet to my left.  I lowered down, retrieved the screws and climbed backup the steep, challenging and bulging ice.

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Up some more steep snow and through a visually interesting ice fall area brought us to the summit where we ate summit yogurt and took in the sites.

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A quite long and uneventful trip down the Coleman Demming route brought us back to camp and then the car.

If I were to do the North Ridge of Baker again I would revert to my normal style and do the route car to car with a small pack.  The route is totally doable in a day for an efficient party.  I would also consider trying to pass through the Coleman Glacier lower down than we did.

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MT Baker North Ridge GPS Track 7112017

http://www.movescount.com/moves/move165982627

http://www.movescount.com/moves/move165982287

 

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Petzl Pick and Spike Protection Review

 

The Petzl Pick and Spike Protection set is designed to protect the points of Mountaineering axes. The set consists of two pieces. One for the axe pick and one for a traditional flat mountaineering axe spike.  Both pieces are made of a soft yet durable rubber and fit the majority of ice picks, crampon front points and mountaineering axes

The pick protector has two parts that the pick is inserted into. The pick is first slid into the lock mechanism and then into the protector. If the pick protector is jostled around, it can not fbut can be used on most axe picks and front pointsIMG_0013

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The Pick Protector on the Camp Frontier mountaineering axe

IMG_0007The spike protector also has two parts to it.  One part is the toggle that goes through the hole in the spike and tethers the protector to the tool.  The other part is the spike protector itself and slides over the spike.  The spike protector is designed for use on traditional flat metal spikes.  It will not work on rounded spikes or spikes created by aluminum shafts.

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The spike protector does not fit on a large variety of mountaineering axes and ice tools

 

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The spike protector on the Givel G-1

 

Bottom Line: The pick protectors are great a variety of tools  such as technical ice tools and mountaineering axes.  The spike protector is much less useful as it works on a small percentage of tools.  For most people, buying the set will be worth it just to use the pick protector.

Pros: durable, fits most tools, protects spike and picks well.

Cons: Unable to purchase spike and pick protectors separately, spike protector only fits old flat style spikes.

MSRP: $9.95

Competitors: BD Spike Protector, BD Pick Protector, BD Ice Axe Protector, Grivel Axe Guard

Compatible Picks: BD Laser, BD Ice Pick, BD Ice + Pick, BD Alpine Pick, Petzl Ice, Petzl Dry, Petzl Pur’ice Alpix

Compatible Mountaineering Axes: Petzl Sum’tec, Givel G-1, IceRock Idol

 

 

Remote First Ascents in Michigan

On Monday the weather was fantastic No chance of rain. The bug forecast on the other hand was horrible. It called for large clouds of gnats. We hiked into the top of the cliff via a spur trail to the North Country trail and rapped down the rappel line on the east end of the cliff. Once at the bottom, the real work began. Our task was to fid a new unclimbed line to the top. Normally that might be easy, but this cliff has a few sections of crappy rock and large sections of crackless roofs that look nearly impossible to protect wit trad gear. We walked almost the entire nearly 2 mile long cliff and decided upon a nice looking weakness with a few slabby sections that looked to go at 5.6. We scrambled up to the bottom of the route. After flaking out the rope, both Kendra and I decided that the route looked very familiar. After a few minutes of discussion we decided that it was The Stritch Route which is the first route we put up on the cliff in September the year before. After a little bit of disappointment, we decided to go for our second choice for a new route which is a couple hundred feet east of The Stritch Route.

The route starts out on a steep but less than vertical face that feels a little insecure. The first pitch ends on a small ledge to the left of the obvious vegetated crack and just under a small roof. The second pitch goes up the vegetated crack and traverses out left on small foot ledges to a ledge which creates the roof above the first belay. Due to a lack of good protection on the ledge the pitch continues to the left side of the ledge and up a small groove through brush and eventually to a vegetated ledge. Be careful with rope drag on this pitch due to the 30 foot horizontal traverse. From the second belay, head up the grungy groove and eventually up some easy slabs to the trees in the forest.

All three pitches of the route are fairly short due to rope drag and lack of other places to belay. As the route is climbed and cleaned up, it may become easier to do the route in less pitches.

Urushiol 5.8 PG13 3 short pitches
May 30th 2016 Carter Stritch, Kendra Stritch, Samantha Glowacki